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White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s

 

We looked in the past at what it is that they call "white musk" . But by now, white accords have become pervasive and more varied. In the November issue of Cosmétique Mag, in an article entitled in French "Le cuir s'éclaircit' (Leather Lightens Up) perfumer Emilie Coppermann of Symrise tallks about leathers which are "near-white" as the effect which is sought after these days. We are thus witnessing the passage from the unabashed use of Isobutyl Quinoleine (IBQ) - think Robert Piguet Bandit - to Isopropyl Cyclohexanol, which has more of a light suede effect - think Gap White Suede (discontinued) or Tom Ford White Suede.

White Florals

Before the great white musk trend, there was the denomination "white floral", which is perfumer's parlance for scents derived from white and yellow flowers. It has become associated as a genre with the idea of a wedding scent with its purity connotation conveniently ignoring the fact that this class of flowers comprises blooms such as tuberose, jasmine, orange blossom, lily, lily of the valley, tiare, frangipani etc. which can be as heady as it gets. Usually laced with indoles, the white floral bouquet in order to be called "white" in a widely accepted sense, has to be cleaned more often than not of its animalic notes.



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